So after some further thought, I decided I didn’t want those lovely ribs just on my feet, I wanted to make a vest. This picture is the bottom 3″ of ribbing, with the middle cable panel. The cable panel has some artfully hidden decreases so that it goes from 58 stitches at the hem to 30 stitches when I get to the top, for waist shaping. Then I’ll have bust increases, short rows with decreases, and whatever I decide to do for the neckline.
December 27, 2008
December 19, 2008
I got some lovely superwash merino from The Gourmet Yarn Company, 450 yards of it, dyed in some awesome blue and green colorway, and I love it too much to make anything for anyone else. So, plain house socks for me! (Or maybe just a little bit ribby.)
December 19, 2008
Remember the cloth napkins I cut the bias binding for? Well, I decided to machine-stitch the remaining 7 of the set. (One is already done.)
So right now I have 5 done, 3 to go– and today through Sunday to do them. Whee!
December 17, 2008
I cast on for this hat at 12:30am today. It’s finished and blocking now, though I daresay it may fit the recipient better than me, since he’s got a bigger head. Pattern below the pics.
Bosch’s Skull Pattern:
Yarn: Cascade 220 in black (main color); Lion Brand Wool in Winter White (top color, or color C); Jo Sharp Silk Road tweedy brown (color B, in middle) and Cascade 220 in a sort of tan color (color A, on bottom). Half a skein or less of the MC and 20 yards or less of the other 3 colors each.
Needles: size 7
Gauge: 4.5 stitches, 6 rows per inch
Size: Huge. Monstrous. If you don’t have a ginormous head, you should probably skip one of the three rows of skulls, or finish the hat by binding off immediately after the 3rd row and sewing it together, or something. Or go down a few needle sizes and make it a bit thicker, that’d probably work too. Or felt it. Use smaller yarn. OR ANOTHER HAT PATTERN. That’s probably your best bet here if you are dainty of cranium. But continuing for the rest of us:
CO 104. Join in round.
Work K2 P2 rib all round for 10 rounds.
Knit one row MC (black).
Begin chart with MC and color A. Work X’s in color and .’s in MC:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
. . X X X . . . 11
. X X X X X . . 10
X . . X . . X . 9
X . . X . . X . 8
X X X X X X X . 7
X X X . X X X . 6
. X X X X X . . 5
. . X X X . . . 4
. X . . . X . . 3
. . X X X . . . 2
. . . . . . . . 1
Chart repeats 13 times around hat.
Change colors and work chart in B and MC, then C and MC (if doing the 3rd repeat, again, huge heads only or big foofy hats).
After you finish the colorwork, start the decreases:
Round 1: Place marker. SSK. Knit 16 more stitches for a total of 17 (including the SSK as one stitch) and place another marker. Knit 17 stitches, place marker, 17 more, place marker– SSK again, count that as one stitch, knit 16 more, place marker, knit 17, place marker, knit a final 17 and you should be back to your first marker.
In other words, you’ve decreased your 104 stitches into 102 (by doing 2 decreases on opposite sides) and placed markers to divide it evenly into 17-stitch sections.
Round 2 and all subsequent rounds: After each marker, SSK.
When you have 6 stitches remaining, cut yarn, thread through all 6 loops, tighten, then weave yarn tail in on the inside of the hat. Weave in remaining ends. Block as desired.
December 17, 2008
A couple of years ago, I offered Bosch a hat and he mentioned wanting a black hat with skulls on it. At the time, I’d been knitting for about a year, and so this was my sterling offering:
Um, so, yeah, it’s been a couple of years and I’ve improved, so right now I’m more than halfway through a second attempt. Here’s a preview:
So, I’ll post the pattern, including the chart, when I’m done.
December 14, 2008
This is the hat to match the scarf I made for my Granny. It’s designed to fit a little lower on the ears than most of my hats. Pattern posted after pics.
Basketweave Hat Pattern:
yarn: Berroco Pure Merino Nuance
needles: size 7 circ & dpn
gauge: 10 st & 12 r = 2″
size 21″ average woman’s head to fit to mid-ear
CO 102. Join in round.
Work K3/P3 rib all round (17 repeats) for 7 rows.
Work P3/K3 rib (reverse the K’s and the P’s, in other words) for 4 rows.
Repeat these 11 rows above 3 times for body of hat.
1st round: Do K3/P3 rib– this will be the reverse of the row below it, the last P3/K3 row. Switch to DPNs when comfortable.
Every 3rd K3, do K1 SSK (decrease of 1). Because there are 17 K3’s
this will wrap around and you won’t complete all of the sections until
the 3rd round is done. After 4th round complete, 85 stitches remain.
Rounds 5-7: Every 3rd P3, do P1 P2tog. Again, this takes 3 rounds to
get all done. After 7th round complete, 68 stitches remain.
Rounds 8-10: Every 3rd K2, do SSK. After all 3 rounds complete, 51
Rounds 11-13: Every 3rd P2, do P2tog. After all 3 rounds complete, 34
Round 14: For EVERY K1P1, do SSK. 17 stitches remain.
Round 15: SSK once and then knit round the remainder of the stitches.
16 stitches remain.
Slip 8 stitches to one of the DPNs and 8 stitches to another DPN and
graft the stitches together. Weave in ends and block as desired.
NOTE: The amazing techknitter wrote a lovely tutorial on decreasing in ribbing without making a pointy bit at the top of the hat, and I was definitely inspired by it when making my own. You can find the tutorial here.
December 13, 2008
I’m making the hat to match my grandmother’s basketweave scarf. Here’s the scarf:
And here’s my progress on the hat so far:
Mostly, this tells me that I should clean off my desk at some point.