David says this glass head is kind of scary, but it’s less scary than what I looked like with wet hair, squinting at the sunlight.
Anyways, here’s the pattern.
RECYCLED CABLED BERET
Yarn: Merino wool recycled from a thrift store sweater (Note: I used about 120 yards of DK-weight yarn.)
Needles: Size 8 bamboo, 20″ circular. Hat is worked back and forth and seamed up.
Row 1: K2,P2 all round.
Row 2: Continue ribbing on back (knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 3: On the first, third, and every odd numbered rib (pair of knit stitches), twist the stitches. Otherwise continue in K2 P2.
Row 4: Same as row 2. In fact, ALL of the even numbered rows, since they are worked on the wrong side, are going to continue to be “knit the knits and purl the purls” with no changes.
Row 5: Twist stitches on the even numbered ribs.
Row 7: Twist stitches on the odd numbered ribs.
Row 9: Same as row 5.
Row 11: INCREASE ROW. On the odd numbered ribs, twist your stitches and THEN K1 M1 K1 (that is, knit the first stitch, make one, knit the second stitch of the cable so that the increase is hidden in the twist).
Row 13: Same as row 5; remember that you now have 3 stitches on your odd numbered ribs. Just knit them.
Row 15: INCREASE ROW. On the odd numbered ribs, twist your stitches and then make the increase in the middle. 4 stitches in odd numbered ribs.
Row 17: same as 5.
Row 19: Same as 15 except you will end up with 5 stitches in odd numbered ribs.
Row 21: same as 5.
Row 23: Final increase, ending with 6 stitches in the odd numbered ribs.
Do row 24 which is a wrong side row (knit the knits and purl the purls) and you are now ready for the decrease section of the hat. 120 stitches on needle.
The hat can now be divided into 10 sections if you look. You have 20 cables, 10 of which are 6-stitch cables and 10 of which are 2-stitch cables. They’re separated by 2 purl stitches between each. Each section is as follows:
P P c c P P C C C C C C (where P are purls, c is the 2-stitch, and C is the 6-stitch).
So on each right-side row, you are going to decrease one stitch. You will still continue to do the cable crossings, so that on each right side row you are either crossing the little cable or the big cable. Our last crossing before this was the odd numbered (big) cables so our next rows will begin…
Decrease row 1: Cross the small cables on this row. On the two purl stitches to the right of the small cables, P2tog to make a decrease.
2 and all even rows: wrong side rows, knit the knits and purl the purls.
Decrease row 3: Cross the large cables. On the two purl stitches to the left of the small cables, P2tog to make a decrease. (You now have only 1 purl stitch separating each cable from the next.)
Decrease row 5: Cross the small cables. On the large cables, K2tog the leftmost two stitches together (now 5 stitches remaining on the large cables).
Decrease row 7: Cross the large cables. K2tog the leftmost two stitches together. (4 stitches remaining)
Decrease row 9: K2tog the small cables. This leaves 1 stitch, don’t worry about crossing.
Decrease row 11: Cross the large cables. Slip the purl stitch after the large cables, slip the single remaining small cable stitch, put your needle through both and knit them together. Purl the remaining stitch in each section.
Decrease row 13: You no longer have a small cable. K2tog the final 2 stitches of the large cable (3 stitches remaining) and purl the remaining stitch in each section. No crossing this row.
Decrease row 15: Cross the cable and decrease out the leftmost stitch by K2tog. 2 stitches remaining on each cable.
Decrease row 17: Slip the second cable stitch, slip the only remaining purl stitch, and knit them together. No cross.
Decrease row 19: K2tog the two remaining stitches.
Row 20: Purl all 10 stitches.
Turn to wrong side. Cut yarn leaving a 2′ tail. Thread through all 10 stitches and pull tight. Sew seam neatly. Block hat on plate (see previous posts) if you want a beret.